Hi Karen. Well if the piece will be stored inside and you don’t like the look of a thick film, I see no reason to go with a thick varnish product. Also a lovely soft finish. It also has the ability to flex with the wood, expanding and contracting with changes in temperature.One difference between this and spar marine varnish is that the spar urethane is a synthetic product and can be either oil based or water based. Thank you for making this possible. (The products I bought are oil based.) I’m glad google had it in the top 5 line items!!!! Hi Mrs. M. You touched on two things I don’t know a whole lot about: pressure treated wood and paint. They do specifically boast a higher solids count making the finish more durable. A coat or two of this stuff, without sanding, should give you a pretty textured surface too. I lost track of him and never have been able to find out what product he used. Even with that said, I’d like to finish it off correctly just in case we decide to move it to the deck permanently. But I think that’s more related to the fact that the material is more flexible. But now I’m worried that the Spar will yellow and that it won’t be safe for a food surface (I won’t be cutting on it, but still). I originally used spar varnish on it in 2004. It can add water protection, UV and heat protection, as well as help to prevent scratches, stains and damage from chemicals or solvents. This is specifically formulated for marine exposure and generally contains phenolic and alkyd resin, as well as Tung oil for its components. I’m about to refinish a late 18th century mahogany table with single board sections; it is very dense and heavy mahogany. Well just about anything that produces a film will be slick. I would like to stain it a darker color and finish with some type of top coat, but not mineral oil, tung oil, etc. Should we coat the entire table or just the top and sides (currently the bottom is left uncoated to allow the smell of cedar) I now know that marine spar is softer to deal with the constant expansion and contraction of a boat’s life on the sea but has pretty darn good UV inhibition (granted it has a good number of coats). Hi Greg. I will be using the chairs outside on a terrace that is not covered. You may also enjoy our article on painting kayaks: I would like to use CPES as a primer before a few coats of Epifanes Rapid Coat but need instructions as to the prep as it is already varnished with (I’m assuming) several coats. It’s a water-based formula intended for exterior use. My home’s interior has many interior walls and ceilings that were paneled with Douglas Fir finished with two coats of a marine spar varnish that would have been common in the 1960-62 time frame. Hi this is Mark from uk England I’m having a summerhouse built in which I will be housing a spa hot tub been told I will need a good varnish to protect the wood what would you recommend please I currently use this on my front door and window sills and never thought of using it on millwork or furniture. It also fisheyed. The polyurethane would definitely be the best choice for the floor. I hope this helps. Would this combo work without yellowing the paint? If that’s the case, I would just start applying your oil/varnish blend. Can I merely add a small quantity of, say, MinWax oil stain? So what makes more sense is to create what is known as a “long-oil varnish”, that is, a formulation that contains a greater percentage of oil. Thanks. Only one of the three doors gets hammered with hard late afternoon sun and heat. What is the acronym for the list of ingredients for a product? What is your suggestion??? I need some advice as to how to procede with a spar varnish product to provide a protective finish. Easy to apply and easy to repair. We want to pull up the subfloors hand expose the beautiful original floors underneath. It will be exposed to the harsh Australian sun and plenty of winter rain. The Conclusion section of the article shows you the produce I recommend. I will obtain some sort of cover in the future, yet it will be exposed to moisture from time to time. :) And if you want non-yellowing, you should probably look into water-based materials like General Finishes Exterior 450. I would really appreciate any insight. For now, I’d say use the stuff that gives the look you want. Other differences are found in the actual application of the products themselves. I need a varnish on an interior window sill that is above a kitchen sink. I’m building a plywood boat. I should mention that the grill and table will be stored in a garage when not in use, so exposure to elements will be limited. Would you recommend marine spar varnish for the pew? Dick. I am not all that experienced in that area so my frame of reference is a bit off. Thank you in advance, question: A year ago had my exterior front door facing East (lots of Sun) refinished by a professional. I live in a very wet environment. Spar varnish is an older formulation of varnish vs. Urethane Varnish is a modern formulation of a tough clear coating used primarily on wood surfaces exposed to outdoor conditions. Any other suggestions on where to get it from, at the best price? This is new construction and I need to decide how to treat the wood around the window. more solids). Yacht Varnish – Also called marine (or spar) varnish, this is a varnish that was originally designed for use on boats where the primary purpose was to ensure that water did not penetrate to the wood. But the information is there. The surface will dry out from time to time and you can just easily apply more mineral oil. Many thanks in advance, Tracy. I want to re-varnish a wooden toilet seat. Hey Travis. Less than 8 months later, in a hard winter, our fence has greyed, and looks as if there is no varnish on it whatsoever. I like Danish Oil for workbenches. Folks, But you might start by looking at some of the pourable bar top epoxy mixtures. We will not be cutting on the countertops. Many thanks. Would the Epifanes CV1000 do the trick for me or is there another product that would be better suited to wood siding that I have already stained? I can’t find a definitive answer any where to which is the best. I installed a penny floor in a small area and have read that you can use the spar varnish to cover the pennies and make them water proof. Would it be beneficial to put a final coat of Spar Urethane on it? Mike. You’ll probably have discovered that they can be pretty similar in the protection that they can give your canoe and the aesthetic appearance. Solvents – Mineral Spirits, Naptha, or Paint Thinner. In all liklihood though, this finish will yellow a bit with time since the product is oil-based. Some of the differences are chemicals from the way that they are mixed. The poles are exposed to the elements, verydry heat and occasional heavy rain.. What do you recommend? So what is the acronym for the list of materials in a product? I have a new unfinished European Birch butcher block countertop. Will you impressions sitting on a spar varnished outdoor chair? I think I’ve narrowed it down to two: Epifanes Clear Varnish or Epifanes Woodfinish Gloss/Matte. thanks. Is there a coating you would recommend. Thanks for your assistance! I used good old Man-O-War Spar Varnish to waterproof it and to UV protect the cotton rope.The next step is to add the decorative colors to it. You would think the grout sealer companies would have something decent on the market. I’ve seen some remark that cloudiness occurs when using multiple coats of satin. The chairs have discolored as well. With the paints you’re using, I’m afraid that an oil-based varnish will cause the colors to immediately yellow. They should all repel moisture effectively. So yes, pretty much ANY varnish will yellow over time. I want an oil on natural wood look. Hi….i have been reading and realmy enjoying your comments. Have you ever used spar Varnish or any other varnish to seal tile grout. I have a small can of spar varnish that has been in the garage for years. As for the acronym, that would be an MSDS. Thanks for your help! I am in the process of making a sign that will be outside. So you’ll still want to apply this stuff VERY thin so that the finish has a chance to cure. Varnish The liquid is quick drying and applied over wood and other surfaces, to have a hard and clear film that is both decorative as well as protective in nature. I was told that the pressure treated needs at least a year to cure before paint could be applied. Spar urethane will instead make a shiny hard surface and maintain the shine for long without getting affected. Honestly I don’t use paint much myself. A note on spar: Bob Flexner has stated several times that household spar varnishes typically have very little in the way of UV inhibitors. Based on what I’ve read on this site and others, I’m thinking that I should apply a few coats of spar vanish to finish the table. You may go into a chandlery and ask for a “spar varnish.” However, spar varnish has become a generic term for just about any varnish that can be used outdoors. But I don’t usually like a real thick film so 3-4 coats wiped on is usually a good compromise for me. 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